Spain’s versatile bounty – Grape Crush

October’s cooler temperatures invite a satisfying range of foods and preparation methods for local chefs and home cooks alike. It’s no surprise to find the grilled fare and fresh salads that got us through the summer now side-by-side with long-anticipated gumbos, soups and game. In turn, this diverse tableau requires versatile wines that can simultaneously stand up to foods and relax around them. The following selections from three different regions in northern Spain do just that.

Prices are approximate and subject to change.

Bodegas La Cana

Albarino • 2009 • $15

Albarino lovers have enjoyed a growing number of interesting selections from Denominación de Origen Rías Baixas in recent years as the popularity and quality of this varietal have continued to increase. Pale, golden La Cana demonstrates the complexity of a good Albarino. The wine’s generous acidity gives it the heft to cut through rich, creamy seafood dishes, pan-fried crab cakes and Thai curries.

Bodegas Ateca

Atteca Old Vines • 2008 • $15

There’s huge fruit in this well-balanced, ruby-red Grenache, produced in the Calatayud region of northeast Spain—a centuries-old winemaking area now in vogue for its reds. Atteca Old Vines is medium-bodied and dominated by black cherries and blackberries. Soft tannins and a smoky finish make it a nice match for hearty sausages, or roast or beer-can chicken.

Emilio Moro

Finca Resalso • 2008 • $13

This is a less-expensive selection from its respected producer, Emilio Moro, and it offers big rewards. Red and berry fruit aromas and flavors are matched with hints of leather, coffee and cinnamon. Pair it with lamb dusted with Indian spices, flank steak with bleu cheese sauce or duck quesadillas.