New Orleans eats, the Fest and beyond

The rain is threatening to mess with Jazz Fest again this weekend, but here five real good reasons to brave the weather: crawfish bread, mango freeze, stuffed artichokes, beggars’ purses and soft-shell crab po-boys. Seriously, is there another festival in the world with food this good? To boot, the Crescent City restaurant scene is in full throttle, with old favorites and new gems providing sumptuous eats and attentive service in the post-storm era.

Everybody’s got their old faves, but here’s a newbie to add to your handheld: Mila.

Mila is the creation of renowned husband-and-wife team Allison Vines-Rushing and Slade Rushing, who had successful careers in New York City before heading home in 2005 to open The Longbranch in Abita Springs, now closed. Their current venture is on the first floor of the Renaissance Pere Marquette Hotel, formerly occupied by Chef Rene Bajeaux’s Rene Bistro, which was shuttered after taking on nearly 10 feet of floodwater. Bajeaux became partner and executive chef at the acclaimed La Provence in Lacombe, a John Besh restaurant and another must-visit spot.

But back to Mila. It’s hip and fun, with primary hues, modern curves and a fun local crowd. Inspired by the Mississippi and Louisiana childhoods (hence the name) of the chef duo, the menu features Southern ingredients reinterpreted in ways both classic and modern. Oysters Rockefeller are served “deconstructed,” that is, simply poached and perched in a row, each accompanied by sautéed spinach, bacon, and licorice root. Briny and amazing. Don’t miss another signature item, the sticky, tender sweet-tea brined duck (sweet tea, Sugar!) with wilted arugula, baby beets and a date reduction. The crab tian appetizer was sumptuous, but I think what I liked best was the moist, sage-studded cornbread served with an ever so spicy lima bean puree. Gawd.