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Black industrial ceilings support spindly chandeliers above a backlit bar with groovy drop lights. And then there’s the purple. In the cozy booths and plush tallboy seats, there’s no escaping it at The Grape, Perkins Rowe’s chic downtown-style wine and tapas bar that has been serving a stellar variety of vino and small sharing plates of upscale appetizers for more than a year.

What’s new at the franchise, owned by local attorneys Kelwin and Linda Perez Clark and managed by their partner and former Avoyelles Café co-owner Brian Dykes, is a full-scale eclectic bistro menu. Offerings lean toward European and Atlantic seaboard fare like crab-stuffed portabello, smoked salmon flatbread and roasted New Zealand lamb chops, though Southwestern touches like chicken quesadillas with feta and sun-dried tomato pesto keep things interesting. Dykes and new chef Brian Williams deviate from the corporate menu whenever possible with local flavors like shrimp remoulade salad and specials like paillard of chicken Puttanesca with soft polenta.

Though wine remains The Grape’s first love, with Saturday afternoon tastings for $15 and retail bottle prices every Wednesday night, the wine bar is celebrating its new cuisine this summer. So keep reading for our secret diner reviews.

Crab cakes.

Grape Ape

No monkey business here; just pure food love.

I’d recommend:

Grape mini crab cakes ($15). Living in Louisiana, we’ve all had our share of crab cakes. After a while, they all start tasting the same. The Grape, however, manages to surprise. Lighter than the standard, these tender, flaky fellas are served with a spicy, brightly flavored aïoli and the tiniest of salads. Get your own plate, because you won’t want to share.

Taking advice. Come for the wine; stay for the service. With an extensive list of wines by the bottle and the glass, here’s your chance to get out of your comfort zone. Ask the knowledgeable staff for recommendations, plus all of those questions you have about wine but have been afraid to.

The crème brulée trio ($7). A gentle finish to the meal, this sampler includes a delightful olive oil brulée. If you’ve never tried a good olive oil dessert, ice cream and gelato are divine, so check this one out.

I’d avoid:

The chocolate cream cheese brownie ($9). Remember how your mom used to tell you that if you swallowed your gum, it would stay in your stomach for, like, 30 years? While tasty, this mega-dense brownie feels like it’s going to stick around for at least that long.

The bottom line:

The Grape is slick, shiny and fun. But it’s not completely comfortable yet. Maybe it’s the restrictions of being part of a chain, maybe it’s the newness of Perkins Rowe and the restaurant, but once this place gets broken in, it’ll be a great addition to the Baton Rouge dining scene.

Lamb chops.

The Indulgent Connoisseur

It’s 4 o’clock somewhere…

I’d recommend:

Lamb chops ($15). So I was scarred by a series of overly gamey lamb a few times in a row and decided somewhere in my adult life that I no longer cared for it. I stand corrected by The Grape, which offers a $20 portion in addition to the $15 version that instantly took me back to a time in my childhood when I remember my father making a similar creation on our grill at home. I am impressed that The Grape was able to pull me out of a 20-year slump. Sorry, Mary … I’m going to eat your lamb.

Martin Codax Tempranillo ($34 bottle). The Grape clearly prides itself on a great wine selection, and our random finger point at the nearest Tempranillo did not disappoint. Smooth deep-red berry flavor is a trademark of this Spanish great, but the wet finish with a hint of pepper was the capper. This is one of the nicest, most approachable drinking wines I’ve had to date.

I’d avoid:

Baked Brie in pastry ($15). Mind you, there was nothing wrong with the Brie, but there was nothing exactly right about it either. If you are going to eat such a luxurious and fatty treat, you kind of want it to be worth the cellulite. I think I’m still thinking about lamb, though, so it might not be the Brie’s fault. You be the judge.

The bottom line:

One must not approach The Grape with a deep nagging hunger. This is a tapas joint with great taste in wine. Getting full here comes with a price tag, but overall, we had a lovely time and the staff was more than accommodating. Well played, Grape.

Cheese & charcuterie.

Winezilla

I’m a former chef, not a former wine drinker.

I’d recommend:

Atlantic smoked salmon flatbread ($9). I admit that I have never been a real fan of salmon, but I want to be. I mostly just end up disappointed. I dug in at The Grape with my doubts entrenched, but it was love at first bite. The salmon was deliciously complimented by the aioli and salad greens served on a tasty flatbread. I’ll come back if only for this dish.

I’d avoid:

Cheese & charcuterie ($17). I enjoyed the offerings on the cheese and charcuterie plate—while they lasted. My complaint is mostly the skimpy size of the platter when held up to the hefty price of 17 smackers. I’d go for the lamb chops or baked Brie to get more bang for your buck, especially if you are hungry.

The bottom line:

Overall I felt that The Grape had nice seamless service, a cute atmosphere, and some truly surprising dishes. This is a great place to go for a glass of wine after work complemented with a small dish or two that won’t ruin your appetite for dinner. You might see me sipping on some of that delicious Santa Margarita Prosecco toasting my newfound love for salmon on your next visit.