Grape Crush

By Maggie Heyn Richardson | Also by this reporter

Friday, December 28, 2007

Single-handedly, the 2004 film Sideways made some wines hip and others the stuff of losers.

Crabby protagonist Miles Raymond yammered on about the temperamental elegance of pinot noir and delivered snooty rants about merlot and cabernet franc. His soliloquies introduced new fads in the wine market, with merlot drinkers going underground and reemerging ready to order the nearest Oregon pinot.

Ironically, Miles’ prized 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc is a blend of both merlot and cab franc, proving the point that you can’t always believe what you hear. Wines are as susceptible to trends as cars and clothes, and preconceived notions can stymie your ability to find out what you really like—and keep you from having fun while you try.

This is the perfect time of year to cast off assumptions about wine and try something new. Resolve to step out of your comfort zone, shelve the old faithfuls and get to know some varietals that might end up becoming your new go-to team.

“There is so much good stuff out there,” says Gene Todaro, owner of Elio Marcello’s Wine Warehouse on Perkins Road near Acadian Thruway. “Throw out the rule book and forget what you’ve been told. There are no absolutes.”

Todaro says it’s easy to fall into the same pattern, particularly when well-marketed domestic vineyards appear everywhere from restaurant wine lists to big-box store shelves. But great wines are made the world over, and it’s a real kick to check them out. Don’t be afraid to ask. A wine merchant worth his salt will answer questions without making you feel like an oaf. Here are four of Todaro’s faves available at Elio Marcello’s.

Riesling

Riesling

Riesling

One of the world’s ranking white grapes, riesling, which ranges from dry to sweet, has been around for centuries and features high sugar balanced by what Todaro calls a “backbone of acidity” that allows it to cut through heavy sauces and fried foods. Rieslings scare off many consumers fearful of sweeter wines, but Todaro says drinking sweet beverages with food happens daily in the form of soft drinks and iced tea. Rieslings have been produced in Germany for more than 2,000 years, and good ones today also come from Australia, Austria and California. Because they’re not popular in the United States, you can find deals for around $20 and under. Todaro especially likes them with Cajun food. [ $3.33 ]

Dry Rosé

Dry Rosé

Dry Rosé

Rosé’s pink hue is achieved when the skins of red grapes are removed within the first few days of production. Served chilled, rosés complement Louisiana’s climate and pair well with fish. There’s one simple reason that rosés don’t have the following in the United States like they do elsewhere. “Color,” says Todaro. Many Americans associate pink with white zinfandel, an inexpensive rosé made in large quantities in California that peaked in the 1980s. But dry rosé’s are less sweet, and many are complex. Todaro says they’re great with sushi. [ $4.99 ]

Albarino

Albarino

Albarino

If you’re going for a food-friendly white, Albarinos are a great fit. They feature the flavors peach and other stone fruits and are crisp, light and refreshing. Their acidity helps them cut through sauces, fats and proteins and complement a wide variety of foods. Albarinos are produced principally in northwest Spain and northern Portugal, where they’re called alvarinhos. Todaro says they’re a great alternative to oaky chardonnays and grassy or citrusy sauvingnon blancs. [ $11.99 ]

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo

With characteristics similar to pinot noir, but with the power of cabernet sauvingon, nebbiolo is a sturdy red that deserves a look. “It’s the greatest indigenous varietal,” says Todaro, who likes it for its Old World DNA and its ability to express the soil in which it’s grown, unlike many domestic wines. Hailing from Italy’s Piedmont, nebbiolo grapes produce the smoky Barolo and the fruitier Barbaresco, two hefty wines that are also excellent for putting up. [ $19.99 ]

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