Two kinds of customers pass through the doors of the new Phil’s Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant—those who stumble upon the spot for the first time and those who remember the quirky magic of its Government Street forerunner.
First established in the late ’50s in the building now occupied by Tiger Deaux-nuts, the original Phil’s was a homey dive adjacent to a seafood market, and the brainchild of small businessman and Mid City resident Phil Tuminello.
In 1975, restaurant General Manager Gus Piazza, a charismatic former LSU equipment manager, bought the eatery. Known for his gift of gab and extensive network of contacts, Piazza forged Phil’s into a local icon that catered to power brokers and regulars alike. The unpretentious menu featured a line-up of fresh Gulf oysters, fried seafood dishes and the Piazza family’s old-school Italian recipes, including a turn-of-the-century meatball recipe.
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“My dad was a real character, and he constantly worked the room,” recalls Jordan Piazza, 28, who worked alongside his father at the restaurant as child. “He knew so many people, and people loved him.”
Phil’s was perhaps best known for its enigmatic back room, a closed-door section of the restaurant that seated around 30 patrons. It was a common lunch spot for state and local politicians, including then-Gov. Edwin Edwards, LSU coaching staff and local business leaders.
“There was always a buzz in the restaurant about who was in the back room that day,” Jordan says. “I can’t imagine all the business deals that got done in there.”
A long and successful run on Government Street led to rolling the dice on a larger location on Concord Avenue in 2003. The family hired a chef to help grow the menu and carry the concept to the next level. But by then, Gus Piazza’s health was failing due to years of struggling with diabetes. The family closed the restaurant in 2007, and five months later, Gus died.
Jordan and his brother Anthony dreamed of reopening it. In the meantime, Jordan went to work for Last In Concepts and later Raising Cane’s, homegrown powerhouses that helped shape his perspective on opening a modern iteration of Phil’s.
Last year, the brothers were approached by commercial real estate agent Donnie Jarreau when Thai Kitchen left Southdowns Shopping Center, oddly enough, for the same spot once occupied by Phil’s on Concord Avenue. The Piazza brothers were in. They began transforming the Southdowns space with simple, unpretentious elements that channeled the old Phil’s while also feeling vibrant and fun.
Pieces from Gus’ collection of LSU sports memorabilia are everywhere, and there’s even a closed-door back room reserved for dignitaries, Jordan says. Its customers are served by Pam Beard, who worked at the original Phil’s for 23 years until it closed.
The menu is intentionally similar to the original. Po-boys are made with Wayne’s Bakery bread, a squishy, plush style of loaf that runs counter to New Orleans French bread orthodoxy. But Jordan says that’s what the restaurant always used, and he’s sticking with it. Similarly, Louisiana Hot Sauce is exclusively on the table as a nod to Phil’s established culture.
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And like the old spot, the restaurant goes through its share of fresh Gulf oysters. Jordan says diners consume up to 80 sacks a week served both fresh on the half shell and chargrilled with one of the restaurant’s signature sauces.
“It’s been a great oyster season so far,” he says. “We’re really excited to be back in business.” philsoysterbar.com
This article was originally published in the January 2017 issue of 225 Magazine.