225BatonRouge.com

Malty, smoky, grassy, or floral. It’s not wine we’re talking about. It’s tea. And interest in the ancient stuff—both for its healing properties and its pinky-raising, ceremonial fun—is at an all-time high.

In this bona fide coffee town, traditional afternoon tea, complete with fine china, steaming pots, quality leaves and exquisite edibles, is available at a couple of venues.

It’s worth taking the time to experience, says Olga Cannon, who opened the Russian Tea Room on Highland Road in the fall. “It inspires people to talk. There’s no rush, and it’s very elegant. It’s an ideal way to entertain friends or business colleagues.”

Cannon says the trick to a great cup is to use loose tea. Not confined to bags, the tea leaves open up, encouraging their flavor to be diffused throughout the entire pot. Cannon also uses water at the proper temperature. Black teas require boiling water, but other teas, like white or green, only require it to be hot. Steep times vary as well.

Tea is also the latest darling of the wellness world. “It has a lot of health benefits,” says Cannon, a former nurse. “Tea has fluoride and it’s full of antioxidants. I could go on forever about tea and how great it is.”

Where to get your tea on

HILTON CAPITOL CENTER

201 Lafayette Street

(225) 3-HILTON

Open Saturday from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.

in the hotel lobby

What it is: The Hilton launched High Tea at the Hilton last month, perfect for a mother-daughter outing. Seating is limited, so reservations are recommended.

Served with: An assortment of traditional tea sandwiches, including cucumber and watercress or salmon and cream cheese, homemade scones and Devonshire cream, petit fours, tea biscuits, cookies, chocolates and fruit.

Prices: $14.95 per person, $9.95 for children under 12

RUSSIAN TEA ROOM

7384 Highland Road

757-8022

Open Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

What it is: Owner Olga Cannon, a native of Russia, opened her restaurant because she missed good, quality tea. Her intention was to replicate the experience of European tearooms. The restaurant features lunch. High tea is scheduled with a 24-hour advance reservation.

Served with: A three-course menu starting with scones with clotted cream and homemade lemon curd. The second course features assorted sandwiches like smoked salmon on pumpernickel, cucumber with herbed cream cheese, curried chicken salad on brioche, and Stilton with dried blueberries and walnuts on white. The third course includes mini pastries, tea cakes and cookies.

Prices: $22.95 per person