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The Wine Loft takes its quest to provide the best in fermented grapes with a precision even Bacchus himself might not execute. From the nitrogen-spilling contraption that resembles a devious experiment, to the exhaustive wine listing, to the sprawling mural of Greek god Narcissus, The Wine Loft does not seem to be fooling around.

The Wine Loft opened in mid-March in the historic Fuqua Building between Third St. and Laurel St. The sprawling, dimly lit space is decorated with square couches, thin fabric and large mirrors, giving the relaxed appearance of a large living room — if your living room is a New York City club.

The Wine Loft’s curtain-swathed cubicles almost mock the square office setting the post-work drinkers just left. But here, instead of pushing around papers and hammering away on desktops, the after-office crowd can shuffle through the extensive selection of 250 wines by the bottle and 70 wines by the glass, and nibble on a selection of appetizers such as wild mushroom and manchego cheese bruschetta or chocolate fondue.

The loft’s strongest asset is the chance to offer an extensive selection of wines without forcing drinkers to commit to the whole bottle. The bar and restaurant features a cuvinet, a large machine that releases a bed of nitrogen around opened bottles of wine. This prevents oxygen from seeping into the bottles and spoiling what’s left after the first pour, and gives patrons a chance to enjoy “wines on tap.”

The price for a glass run from $4 for a glass Walnut Crest Pinot Grigio to $14 a glass for Mount Veeder Meritage.

Owner Doyle Restaurant Group of New Orleans, which also operates Rasputin's on Third, had plans to expand to Baton Rouge before Katrina. Melissa Schwander Doyle, wife of owner Jason Doyle, says she has seen Baton Rouge evolve since they company rented the space. “Since we found the space last year, Baton Rouge has definitely progressed. They’re with it, and now it’s time to grow and shine and show New Orleans people to stay here.”

The only thing missing from The Wine Loft at the moment is the actual loft. The bar’s staircase that will eventually lead to an area of more sectioned off seating is still in production. So for the next three weeks, it’s just “The Wine.”

The Wine Loft makes a great place to grab a few drinks to begin or cap off an evening. It also provides the best setting in Baton Rouge to quote “Sideways” and improve your knowledge of wine.