The Timpano entrée features compact layers of al dente pasta sheets loaded with flavorful Italian sausage and grilled veggies in a pool of savory red sauce. Photos by Amy Shutt
In a strip mall across from Perkins Rowe sits a tiny restaurant where a local culinary favorite is humbly serving luminous Italian cuisine.
Softly lit and romantic, the space Elton Hyndman and his wife Randee have created in Nino’s is a retreat for those seeking an unhurried, expertly prepared meal. The experience comes with a devoted staff and even more loyal clientele.
Having taken over from former owner and restaurant namesake Nino Giacalone more than six years ago, the Hyndmans took a well-established restaurant and elevated it to greater heights. Hearing rumors of a recent menu overhaul, I thought it time to revisit one of my favorites.
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Chef Hyndman began his kitchen career as a dishwasher in Ontario at the age of 11 (he claims he lied and said he was 12 in order to get hired). He went on to hone his kitchen skills in Albuquerque, where he met both his mentor and his wife, then moved to Seattle and eventually to Baton Rouge. Hyndman learned the importance of ingredients from his earliest days in the kitchen. He has extended that knowledge into his restaurant’s focus on house-made items and locally sourced ingredients, forging personal relationships with the purveyors and farmers who supply Nino’s.
Once seated in the intimate restaurant, we happily delved into the menu with several starters. Our group was struck by the polished, sophisticated plating of each, with the gnocchi being most noteworthy. Each morsel was grilled to crispness with a toothsome bite. These were not delicate, billowy dumplings, but rather firm and sturdy and resting on a subtle pea purée that rounded out the dish.
More nuanced were the summery Shrimp Spedeini, with skewers of shrimp intermingled with peaches. Served with an assertive cocktail sauce tasting of fennel, celery and coriander, this dish was a fascinating blend of flavors.
The entrée offerings sounded so mouthwatering we all had difficulty choosing. A must-have, the Timpano consisted of compact layers of al dente pasta sheets loaded with flavorful mild Italian sausage and grilled veggies, piquant and complex red sauce and plenty of ricotta. This dish belonged to another diner, and I admit to coveting my neighbor’s food.
The Cast Iron Filet of Ribeye was encrusted in a char so crisp it was audible at first cut. The meat was perfectly medium rare, surrounded by earthy chanterelles in a robust brown gravy with a strong aftertaste of celery. Served with sautéed fresh vegetables and a root vegetable gratin topped with panko, it was a meat and potato fantasy. I’m not sure if it was the sauce, veggies or gratin, but something was heavily salted. I hit the wine to cleanse my palate. A minor misstep in an otherwise faultless dinner.
Two guests at our table thought it nonsensical to go without an entrée featuring Nino’s fresh, homemade pasta and so ordered Lobster Capesante and Carbonara. This is an Italian restaurant, after all. The house-cured guanciale (an Italian cured pork made from cheeks or jowl) made the traditional Carbonara distinctive, while the Lobster Capesante, with lobster and scallops atop squid ink linguine, brought the briny robusto flavors of the sea to our inland dining experience.
Of the four house-made desserts available, we tried all but the bread pudding (frequent readers of this column will understand it’s hard to avoid at most local restaurants). The Chocolate Torte was astonishingly rich and thick, with a creamy, sweet caramel that was an exquisite death by chocolate (and caramel).
Upon first spying the small portion, I thought the restaurant was being a bit stingy. But once you partake of this decadent sliver, you will not be left wanting for more. With three other diners at my table, I think we still left a morsel on the plate.
Nino’s Tiramisu was an excellent, traditional representation of the Italian classic. When it comes to this time-honored standard, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
The finale of Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies with a seasonal bourbon-peach-caramel ice cream was over the top. One may ask, “How good can under-baked cookies really be?” These are marvelous—as irresistible as any fresh, hot cookies out of the oven.
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Nino’s offers a tiny oasis of sophisticated tastes and culinary talents.
But it bears repeating: The space is small, making reservations a must any day. So plan accordingly, and plan to eat here. Soon.
THE ESSENTIALS:
ninos-italian.com
7512 Bluebonnet Blvd.
757-9300
Tuesday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m.