Thursday, March 27, 2008
Editor’s note: Andreas Argenti is a musician and connoisseur of New Orleans food who hasn’t missed a Jazz Fest for 19 years. We asked him to share his Jazz Fest recommendations.
It’s a daunting task, not to mention an honor, to be asked to steer Jazz Fest fans toward the best of the Fest.
But being such a big fan of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, I’ve given it my best shot.
I spent the majority of the 1990s as a local New Orleans musician, holding down the drums for local funk band Smilin’ Myron, among other things. I went to my first Jazz Fest in 1989 and haven’t missed a single one since. And I enjoyed the privilege of playing at the festival in the mid-1990s.
Jazz Fest is the greatest single gathering of the city’s music and culture you will find anywhere. There’s so much great music on any given day at the Fest, it’s literally impossible to hear and see it all.
With that in mind, I’ve tried to point out some true Fest gems, some less-than-obvious artists worth checking out. My tastes tend toward jazz, funk and original New Orleans music, so that’s what recommendations are all about.
Where
Fair Grounds Race Course in New Orleans
Tickets
$40 per day in advance, $50 at the gate. (Ticketmaster adds $6.90 charge per advance ticket, but you can avoid their fees by purchasing tickets in person using a credit card at the Gate A ticket office of the Superdome from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, or at the New Orleans Arena offices at 1501 Girod St.
Jazz Fest trivia
The festival started in 1970, inspired by the Newport Jazz Festival. It moved to the Fair Grounds in 1972 (the third-oldest horse track in the United States). Today the Fest features 12 stages.
More information
The music
Friday, April 25
Ozomatli (below). Ten guys from the West Coast, who for 12 years have relentlessly toured the world and honed their unique blend of high-energy Spanish-English hip hop, salsa, cumbia, dub and funk. One minute you’ll feel like you’re in Brazil, the next in Cairo, your hips shaking all the while.
Leo Nocentelli’s Rare Gathering. Warning: stink-ometers picking up dangerously high levels of funk. A founding member of New Orleans’s legendary funk band The Meters, nobody plays a more funky rhythm guitar than Leo. To make sure the groove stays in the pocket, he brings along Will Calhoun (drummer, Living Color) and Bernie Worrell (keyboardist, Parliament Funkadelic), plus other funk legends. A rare gathering indeed.
Lady Tambourine. As you may have guessed, she plays the tambourine, but like you have never seen it played before. Rosalie “Lady Tambourine” Washington plays it with her hands, hips, elbows, knees, and is dancing the whole time. It’s important to note that Lady T is not just a blast to watch and listen to, she carries the torch of a long New Orleans tradition of tambourine playing in the gospel choir.
Saturday, April 26
Walter “Wolfman” Washington. A staple of the New Orleans music scene and the international circuits, Walter and his band take rhythm and blues music to a new level. Well into his 60s now, nobody is more soulful than Walter, whether he’s crooning a ballad or laying down some of the meanest funk grooves you’ll ever hear. A true New Orleans treasure.
Jon Cleary. Originally from the United Kingdom, Jon was drawn to New Orleans (and at times, Cuba) by the music and culture. When he’s not on the road playing keyboards with Bonnie Raitt, he’s doing his own thing with his amazingly tasteful band, the Absolute Monster Gentlemen. He took his time assembling these guys—rumor has it by poaching from the local church gospel bands. Expect funk, blues, New Orleans-style piano grooves and soul ballads, all with flawless vocal harmonies.
Sunday, April 27
Jeremy Davenport. At the risk of stereotyping, the ladies will like him because of his looks and his wit; the guys will like him because he and his band can seriously play. Originally from St. Louis, Davenport came to New Orleans for UNO’s jazz studies program under Ellis Marsalis. Shortly thereafter he joined Harry Connick Jr.’s big band as a trumpet player. Jeremy has since enjoyed a successful solo career, putting his own hip twist on the old-school stylings of guys like Frank Sinatra and Tony Bennett.
Nicholas Payton. Widely regarded as one of the true greats in contemporary jazz music, New Orleans trumpeter Nick Payton’s performances in the Jazz Tent are always intense, original and memorable standouts every year.
Thursday, May 1
Porter Batiste Stoltz (below). Also known as PBS, this trio of veteran musicians will direct some heavy-duty funk grooves into your ear hole. Bass player George Porter Jr. is of course well known as the original and current bass player of The Meters, among other things. For this group he has teamed up with virtuoso drummer Russell Batiste Jr. and guitar monster Brian Stoltz, both of whom played for the Funky Meters at different times.
Kirk Joseph’s Backyard Groove. Kirk Joseph is 100% New Orleans, and you’ve never heard the tuba played like this. A founding member of the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, Joseph wrote the book on brass band tuba playing. He has moved on since his Dirty Dozen days and continues to explore the tuba in various settings, most interestingly by incorporating it as the bass instrument in various electric bands (the best example being with Anders Osborne). Be prepared to dance.
John Ellis featuring Jason Marsalis. Although he may not have the family name of his drummer Jason, John Ellis’ musicianship is just as stellar; maybe that’s because they had the same teacher. John honed his jazz saxophone-playing skills at UNO under the close tutelage to Ellis Marsalis in the early 1990s. Jason Marsalis’ approach to playing the drums is just as innovative and soulful as John’s sax playing. This show is not to be missed if you are the least bit of a jazz fan.
Friday, May 2
Zigaboo (BOO) Modeliste. The original drummer for The Meters, Zig is known and respected worldwide as one of the funkiest drummers on the planet. Part of what gave The Meters original groove was Zig’s style of taking the New Orleans second-line street beats and incorporating them into the drum kit of a funk band setting. From funk bands to jam bands, contemporary drummers all over the world mimic his style. Check him out doing his own thing.
Bonerama. If you were up late Feb. 11 you may have caught them on the Late Show with David Letterman. They’re hard to miss—a complete frontline of up to five trombones, a guitar, drums and a tuba. Most of the tunes are original, and they play everything from funk and traditional New Orleans music to Hendrix. The band is made up of top-notch New Orleans veteran players, but don’t miss Mark Mullins playing monster trombone solos through his myriad of effects that’ll make you think it’s an electric guitar solo.
John Boutte (above). John comes from an entire family of New Orleans singers and musicians. His style includes jazz, blues and gospel, and I can genuinely say there are few singers anywhere who can deliver the kind of soul and passion that he consistently does at his shows. His Jazz Fest performance is always special and brings everyone to their feet.
Saturday, May 3
Tribute to Max Roach, featuring Herlin Riley, Jason Marsalis and Shannon Powell. What better way to honor one of the greatest drummers in jazz history than with three of the greatest contemporary jazz drummers from the birthplace of jazz? Herlin is best known for being Wynton Marsalis’ drummer, while Jason most definitely inherited the brilliant musician gene. And whether playing straight swing or a fierce street beat, Shannon lays down one of the fattest pockets of any drummer around. This one is sure to be a Jazz Fest highlight this year.
Sunday, May 4
Dumpstaphunk. Don’t be afraid because it sounds stinky and gross. Be afraid because you will be assaulted with grooves by the baddest New Orleans funk band since the original Meters. This isn’t sacrosanct crazy talk, I mean it! Aaron Neville’s son and Dumpstaphunk band leader Ivan Neville not only rocks the Hammond organ and clavinet, but he has recruited some real veterans of the art form, including bass players Nick Daniels and Tony Hall, both of whom have had several yearlong stints with the Neville Brothers, among other bands. Do not come away from Jazz Fest without having smelled the Dumpstaphunk.
The food
Most dishes are available in small or large portions. I recommend ordering small because, like the music, there’s so much to choose from you’ll never try it all.
Cochon de lait po-boy. Just imagine: A slow-roasted suckling pig, pulled apart in fork-tender glory and spooned onto a bed of lettuce within a fresh loaf of French bread, then smothered with Love at First Bite of New Orleans’ rich, slightly spicy Cajun sauce.
Jama Jama. It’s just sautéed spinach, but it’s so delicious. Must be Bennachin Restaurant of New Orleans’ special West African recipe and spices. Such a refreshing alternative to many of the rich foods featured at the Fest, but have no fear: You can pair it with an order of sweet and tangy-fried plantains to complete the masterpiece.
Pheasant, quail and andouille gumbo. There are a few different types of gumbo at the Fair Grounds, but this is the one you want to try. It’s made by Prejean’s Restaurant from Lafayette and is of the rich, dark roux variety. This is the kind of stuff Grandma slow-cooks all day after Emile comes back from a successful hunting weekend. Ahee!
Crawfish sack. Don’t let the name turn you off; this is seriously fine cuisine. First the folks from Patton’s in Chalmette mix up a special crawfish-laden stuffing, then they carefully place it inside a flat, square piece of pastry. They take the four corners of the pastry dough, tie them together with a strand of green onion and fry the whole thing to a crispy, golden brown. It’s served in a rich, slow-cooked French-style sauce.
Strawberry lemonade. Make no qualms about it: It’s hot out at the Fair Grounds. You’ll be out in the sun all day stuffing your pie hole with rich, delicious treats, and it’s important to remember to hydrate. Nothing will quench your parched throat more satisfyingly than this delicious concoction. New Orleans’ Scales Strawberry Lemonade tastes like mashed and strained strawberries mixed with fresh squeezed lemons and sweetened to perfection with a little honey.
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