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Let’s talk tomatoes. Not just any tomatoes—certainly not those pale, plastic-tasting round things that sometimes masquerade as tomatoes at the big supermarket. I’m talking about fat, brightly colored and juicy Creoles or beefsteaks, small crunchy teardrops, oblong shaped plums, round and red cherry tomatoes or bright orange “tangerines” that are sweet, sweet.

Let’s talk tomatoes that have an unmistakable musky scent of hot earth and sun, causing eyes to close and the imagination to wander. Simply slice with fat crystals of salt, a few fresh basil leaves and a drizzle of fruity, aromatic extra virgin olive oil? Or cut them into quarters, tossed with fresh buffalo mozzarella, dressed lightly with fresh herbs and a splash of balsamic vinegar? Or best of all, a stack of tomato slices layered with crumbles of creamy bleu cheese and slices of Vidalia onion splashed with an easy red-wine vinaigrette?

Botanically speaking, the tomato is a fruit. Legally…that’s another story. Late in the last century, a New York food importer had claimed duty-free status for a shipment of tomatoes from the West Indies. He argued the tomatoes were fruit and, therefore, not subject to import fees. The customs agent disagreed and imposed a 10% duty on the shipment he deemed as vegetables. The U.S. Supreme Court ruled, basing its decision on common language use. The high court judges held tomatoes are “usually served at dinner in, with or after the soup, fish or meat, which constitute the principal part of the repast, and not, like fruits, generally as dessert.” Thus, the tomato became a vegetable, and the importer had to pay the duty.

Tomatoes inspire fanciful musings and also some serious debate. In Louisiana, much ado is made about what constitutes a true Creole tomato. There isn’t room here for the myriad opinions as to what is a Creole tomato. Suffice it to say, all parties agree the soil, water and climate play an integral role. And while some say any vine-ripened tomato is a Creole, others maintain only true Creole tomatoes are grown in St. Bernard Parish.

Whatever the case, Creoles will be available at road-side stands, the Red Stick Farmers’ Market and groceries all over Baton Rouge.

Chef John Folse is passionate about Creole tomatoes. He says, “There is no better pasta topper than a sauce made with Creole tomatoes in season. The sweet juicy Creoles develop into a sauce that is without comparison in color and sweetness.”

One of his great recipes is a Grilled Shrimp, Sausage and Creole Tomato Pasta; find it at jfolse.com.

The truly tomato devout might consider making a pilgrimage to New Orleans for the 20th French Market Creole Tomato Festival that honors the Creole tomato and the farmers’ who grow them. This year’s festival is June 10. Boxes of tomatoes will be available for purchase, and there are food booths as well as some of New Orleans’ leading chefs performing cooking demonstrations with tastings of their Creole tomato dishes.

Creative chefs in Baton Rouge will no doubt find every way possible to use the sweet, firm tomato at its best and so can you.