Monday, May 1, 2006
It’s not often you see steak frites and chicken paillard on local menus much less that they’re served while a breeze drifts through open windows. But that’s the scene at Bistro Byronz, the new mid-city restaurant launched this spring at the east end of Government Street.
Housed in a newly renovated space, Byronz gets big points for vibe. It’s cheery and accessible—an easy place to land. Black and white tiles, a pressed tin ceiling over an enclosed porch, simple wood tables and vintage tea towel napkins make if feel both retro and solid. And with cozy quadrants throughout including a bar, a terrace, and small dining areas that are airy and comfortable.
The restaurant has roots in Byronz Deli, a popular eatery and take out that closed nearly 20 years ago. The menu nods to its past with original items like the meaty Big Byronz sandwich, shrimp and corn soup and the sugary Heavenly Hash dessert. Basic sandwiches and salads are plentiful here, but the place also flirts with old world elements. Still and sparkling water are served for the table, there’s a stark color scheme, and the board of fare includes bistro favorites albeit hybridized.
The salads are huge, cold and fresh. The chef’s salad, shrimp remoulade and shrimp Louie are back from the restaurant’s deli days ($9 to $10). They join the new sesame crusted tuna on baby greens with Asian vinaigrette and the bistro salad with grilled chicken, mandarin oranges, and dried cherries over spinach with raspberry poppy seed dressing ($13 and $11). The chop salad isn’t so chopped, but it’s replete with crispy romaine and a smattering of hearts of palm, baby corn, tomatoes and chunks of Maytag bleu ($8). The dressings are tasty and homemade, but only grace the salads lightly.
The popular signature sandwiches reuben, sliced filet, roasted veggie, and others - are served on round multi-grain rolls that our waiter reported were locally baked. The Big Byronz is made of ham, salami and Canadian bacon with cheese, dressing and trimmings ($8). Also back from the restaurant’s past is the avocado supreme, which I liked but found too wet with balsamic vinegar ($6.50).
The appetizers are solid. Somebody on the design team likes bleu cheese, and aren’t we glad. The Maytag bleu cheese chips feature Byronz’s homemade potato chips drizzled with melted bleu, then topped with bleu cheese chunks ($7). It’s simple and salty, tangy and rich. And each bite of the eggplant caponata, a classic chunky spread of eggplant, squash, peppers, onions, garlic, capers, and balsamic vinegar was complex and wholesome ($7). It would have shined even more had it not been served cold.
The classic chicken paillard, which features a pounded chicken breast, was tender and nicely herbed-up ($13). It deviated from its normal simplicity and was given a slather of barbecue-style sauce I found unnecessary. The dish was served with a pile of fresh, wild greens and a winning Provencal medley of roasted eggplant, squash, peppers, and herbs.
On another occasion, my mouth watered as steak frites were delivered to a nearby table ($13). The combination of crisp shoestring fries alongside a fatty rib-eye are hard to beat. But I had passed on the safe bet and chosen cassoulet instead ($9). I anticipated my spoon breaking through the dish’s signature crust to the steaming stew of beans and meats within, but Byronz’s version was completely different. It featured only white beans and sausage in a shallow bowl – no crust at all. The sausage was a satisfying house-made version with tasso, ham and duck, but the dish fell short of its roots, and my taste buds felt short-changed.
The young wait staff is pleasant and accommodating. The sparking water is served at a refreshing near-freezing temperature. There are only a few simple desserts, and the best bet among them is the granola cookie supreme, a crisp oatmeal cookies sandwiched around vanilla ice cream ($5).
The dinner menu is easy and affordable; there’s nothing over $20 including the three steak frites choices. The menu and atmosphere are both family-friendly and date-worthy. An appealing bar features 20 wines by the glass, plenty more by the bottle and newly confected cocktails like the mojito-mint-julep, the vodka fruit freeze, and the fiery bloody mary.
Bistro Byronz
5412 Government Street
Baton Rouge, LA 70806
(225) 218-1433
Open Monday through Saturday, Lunch and Dinner
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