Let’s all have a little lamb

Let’s all have a little lamb

By Lorin Gaudin | Also by this reporter

Saturday, April 1, 2006

I have always been a fan of the flavor of lamb—the slightly gamey, rich flavor of the meat with a crusty, well-seasoned exterior and, for me, a ruby-red rare interior. Lamb is not always a great favorite of the masses. It’s a unique taste, and first-time diners can be turned off easily by poor preparations—ask my husband about lamb-burgers. Seasonally and traditionally, spring is considered lamb prime time with many cultures roasting whole lambs for Easter, lamb being symbolic of Christ.

For those celebrating Passover, a roasted lamb shank bone is placed on the Seder plate as a remembrance of the paschal lamb. Also, lamb has been the Pope’s Easter entree since the 9th century.

In addition to traditions and holidays, Baton Rougeans are probably most familiar with the succulent and delicious lamb dishes from the any of the large number of Mediterranean restaurants blanketing our town serving meaty-flavored slices of gyros, chunks of marinated and grilled lamb in kabobs or lamb ground fine and blended with herbs spices for kafta. But you can cook lamb at home quite easily.

Hit your favorite butcher or grocer for a leg (boned is easiest), rack or chops. Keep in mind lamb marries well with strong flavors such as garlic, mustard, rosemary, thyme, oregano, savory and fennel. Lamb also works well with tender spring vegetables such as baby carrots, asparagus tips and fresh peas or any of the gorgeous seasonal vegetables found at the Red Stick Farmers’ Market.

Not in the mood to cook? There’s plenty of lamb to be found in Baton Rouge restaurants. Chef Scott Varnedoe of Varnedoe’s Carriage House at the Myrtles Plantation features lamb on the menu and in specials.

One of his more popular preparations is the cast-iron roasted lamb T-bones atop a Vidalia onion and bacon gratin with ham-hock stewed cabbage, a roasted shallot demi-glace and a smoked creole tomato preserve. The combination of textures and flavors is brilliant—salty, sweet, bitter, chewy—it’s all there. Another stand-out lamb dish is from Juban’s Chef Terry McDonner. Chef McDonner does a classically seasoned and tender lamb rack with Southern inspiration. Again the play of textures and flavors is stunning and smart in his lamb rack, an oven-roasted four-bone rack of Colorado lamb, cooked to your taste and served with a seared medallion of garlic cheese grits, a hash of okra, tomato and applewood smoked bacon and finished with a deep and rich rosemary glace de viande.

Spring into April, the month for great food and celebrations. It’s time for Baton Rouge to have a little lamb.

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