Spatula Diaries

Brine before you grill

June 2, 2010
By Maggie Heyn Richardson

Ribs and Boston butt, awash in fat, almost never disappoint when it comes to flavor and tenderness, but leaner cuts of pork, like chops, are a different story. Sucker that I am, I return to pork chops every few weeks; it's something that can't be helped. Rooted in Southern cooking, a chop is a great host for all manner of sides, including church supper-ish macaroni and cheese and polenta with elegant wild mushroom ragout. But execution of this tricky meat can fall short, since its natural default is dry and bland. Brining is the answer, and it's far less tedious than you think.

Soaking leaner cuts of meat in brine, or a solution of salt, sugar and other accompaniments, accomplishes two things: It breaks down tough tissues and imparts flavor. The problem with many brine recipes is that they produce way more brine than a weeknight chef needs. Instead, try this easy formula, appropriate for two one-inch thick bone-in pork chops. Double and triple as necessary.

Two cups water

Quarter cup salt

Quarter cup brown sugar

One teaspoon black peppercorns

3 bay leaves

Tbsp apple cider vinegar

Two cups ice

Bring water to boil and dissolve salt and brown sugar. Remove from heat. Add next three ingredients. Add ice. Place in a plastic container that can comfortably hold the chops (a rectangular one works well), and refrigerate until mixture is cool. Check after 10 minutes. Place chops in container with liquid and refrigerate for about 12 hours.

This really is an easy process. It's something you can do in the morning before work, or before you turn in. Toss your brined chops on the grill, cook to your preference (I like between mid-rare and medium if it's good quality meat) and be sure to let them rest. You'll notice the juiciness.

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