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I keep bumping into veal, and I don't mean cutlets or parmigiana. Cheeks and sweetbreads seem to be emerging more and more, or maybe I'm just paying more attention. We're on the road to New Orleans Friday night, and I'm reading about veal sweetbreads in this month's Gourmet. Then, there they are again as an appetizer served with cippolini onions, sunchokes and mushroom-sage jus at our restaurant of choice, Iris, which was excellent. I passed on them in favor of Iris' veal cheeks ravioli, a napkin-sized single ravioli stuffed with velvety bits of cheek (who knew jaw muscle could be so yummy!). The whole thing was bathed in a woodsy mushroom cream sauce and was wintry and perfect. Too bad it felt like summer out. I'd been thinking about veal cheeks since having them years back at René Bistro in New Orleans on Common Street. According to the city's Where Magazine, the spot, a casualty of Katrina, is now occupied by MiLA, the new venture of former Longbranch owners Alison Vines-Rushing and Slade Rushing. But I digress. Back to veal.

On to Lilette on Saturday, where the braised veal cheeks with mixed greens and horseradish vinaigrette was lovely contrast between hearty and slow-cooked, and fresh and palate-cleansing. I also savored and slurped aromatic chicken broth with leeks, tomato, parmigiano and soft poached egg (I love eggs floating in soup. Been dying to make garlic soup with its requisite baked egg with runny yoke on top.) The arugula salad with feta, grape tomato, mint and red wine vinaigrette was also great, and those kicked off a night of winning dishes. But that's also another story. My point is, veal in all sorts of packages is out there for the taking, be it your poison.

And if you're in the mood to cook veal cheeks this holiday season, here what's available recipe-wise from Food Network and Epicurious.