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Last week, the Baton Rouge-based Louisiana Culinary Institute held another of its Home Plate Classics, an in-house Iron Chef-like showcase of student talent. The mystery ingredient? Quail. Twice a year the school invites local media and food business people to judge the handiwork of its chefs-in-training. I bellied up last week and tasted 15 original quail-happy dishes. Not for the faint for the heart.

Really though, quail, while diminutive and sorta exotic, is as utilitarian as chicken. Its flavor may be sturdier than your average foul, but it’s certainly more versatile than most game. I found it took on well every flavor it was subjected to.

Kudos go to LCI students, who were clearly dedicated and enthusiastic. The Red Team, which erred on the side of classic preparation, sealed top honors by a tiny margin. The Green Team was also impressive with dishes that flirted with fusion and Pacific Rim influences. My only disappointment was the chronic use of red and green pepper as a garnish, (big time overpowering), and the fact that we didn’t get to see a frenzy of little quails being deboned, sliced and diced on site. The cooking took place prior.

I liked the winner’s cold-smoked, deep-fried quail on a buttermilk biscuit with blueberry jam; prosciutto-wrapped quail on a nest of fried sweet potatoes, and paneed breast of quail with a fiery corn macque choux. Faves from the Green Team included quail-stuffed zucchini “ravioli” with lemon beurre blanc sauce, stuffed quail roulade with spicy avocado and mashed potatoes, and a bizarre, though tasty, Thai-influenced dessert that featured chunks of quail sweetened with citrus, coconut milk and cardamom (I think) and served in a chilled orange half. Would have made a helluva summer salad.

LCI Admissions Director Mary Gugich says the group of around 20 students hails mostly from outside Louisiana and that they come here to study regional fare. Currently, male students still far outnumber female (why is this, pray tell?), although that’s starting to shift slightly. The spring class was the first ever to feature more gals than guys, even though that’s not the case this fall.

LCI, unfortunately, is no longer open to the public for lunch, as earlier cooking school incarnations were on Lafayette Street and under the Perkins Road Overpass. Instead, said Gugich, the new operation on Essen Lane is focused exclusively on training a growing number of students. Soon, the school will launch an Associates Degree program.

Quail on, Chefs.