Before my first visit to Omi, I had heard only hints and whispers about the mysterious restaurant. But the whispers that did meet my ears had me curious about what we might find there.
Omi is tucked away off Essen Lane, all but hidden in a building that has housed many other restaurants. The exterior of the current incarnation is modest and unassuming, but once in the foyer, we saw two small signs, written in Chinese, with the day’s specials. When I saw the Chinese characters, I knew we were in for a legitimate treat.
Past the entranceway, we were greeted by a young man whom I later learned was part of the extended family that owns and operates Omi. Before we were seated, I asked him to interpret the board of specials. He was incredibly polite, patient and accommodating in his descriptions. Once he had us seated, he was equally helpful with the menu—a good thing, as most of it is also in Chinese, supplemented with English names but no descriptions. We stuck with the Chinese food, but for those in need of some Japanese flavor, there is also a sushi and hibachi menu available.
After extensive descriptions and an indulgent Q&A session, we gave the waiter our order.
Wanting to try as many diverse dishes as possible, we decided on four promising entrees: Taro Pork and Pickled Napa Fish for protein, the intriguingly named Ants Climbing Trees, and, for good measure, a vegetable dish of Garlic Sauce Eggplant to round out our meal.
The Ants Climbing Trees had neither, but what it did have filled us with both great joy and flavorsome noodles. The dish was found in the menu’s pork section, but our server repeatedly said it was made with beef. There wasn’t much of any meat, but after one bite, we weren’t overly concerned. Thesweet potato noodles, clear and sticky with a pleasant firmness, were speckled with large slices of garlic and fresh cilantro. My companion described it as “jacked-up ramen for the uninitiated. But so, so much better.” We both agreed it was fantastic.
In a meal punctuated by highlights, our next dish was both unusual and very special. The Taro Pork can best be described as the most outrageous pork and gravy you’ve never had. I had to force myself away from it to partake in the other dishes. Consisting of braised chunks of soft, meaty pork belly and firm, thickly sliced taro, all in a happy pool of slightly sweet and slightly salty gravy, this dish is what Sunday supper should taste like. If you’re craving homegrown comfort food, but your family lives too far away, get yourself to Omi and get soothed. And full. And content. That’s what this was: a plate of contentment.
If the Taro Pork lulled us into a state of serenity, the Pickled Napa Fish awakened us with a jolt to the palate. At first bite, I almost choked from the spice. I’m in no way disparaging the dish; I was simply unprepared for such aggressive spice. This dish is capable of inducing heartburn or nirvana, depending on your taste for culinary heat. My companion and I both loved this dish, with its flaky fish and crisp Napa cabbage (with chili flakes and halved sliced chilies clinging to the leaves), served most appropriately with steamed rice. I couldn’t get enough, though my sinuses and throat begged for mercy.
Like a cooling treat on a hot summer’s day, the Garlic Sauce Eggplant was the perfect final note to the symphony of strong flavors and spices that came before. We were told the eggplant was dusted, fried, sauced and then sauteed. Or was it sauteed then sauced? We couldn’t remember, but after the first bite it didn’t matter how it was prepared. The crisp yet soft eggplant was bathed in a tangy, sweet sauce that, for me, eliminated the need for dessert.
With all our entrees nearly consumed, the waiter honored us with a bit of lagniappe in the form of two soups. Think of everything you know about egg drop soup or hot and sour soup—gloppy, over-salted, too thick, boring—and throw those notions out the window. These were not your standard Chinese takeout soups. My friend and I were both in awe of the delicacy of the egg drop. The flavors were fresh and subtle with an essence of sweetness. The hot and sour was brothy and black-peppery without overwhelming our palates. There were appropriate amounts of tofu, mushroom and bits of egg to round out this outstanding sample.
I’ve been accused of using many superlatives in my reviews and what may seem like hyperbole, but what we enjoyed at Omi deserved such metaphors. I have not had Chinese cuisine (yes, cuisine) this authentic, this pleasurable or this outrageously good since my last visit to San Francisco’s Chinatown. And that was some time ago. Who knew that rather than catch a plane, all I had to do was take a drive down Interstate 10, detour off Essen Lane and have a genuine Chinese feast with neither the jet lag nor the expense.
