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Grape crush: Passion fruit

Certain wines provoke strong feelings, and this month, we’re looking at particular varietals and flavor profiles that provoke a powerful response. Chardonnay, for example, is the only acceptable white wine for many consumers. Sales of it far outpace other varietals despite the best efforts of producers and reviewers to push different options. So, to honor our Chardonnay-loving friends, we’ve featured a nicely priced bottle that’s great for summer dinners.

Dry rose is also a powerful conversation piece, both among fans who are relishing its recent popularity and those who still avoid it because of its erroneous association with white zinfandel. It’s hard to find a better hot weather wine than rose, so we keep reaching for it.

And finally, we feature a bold, dry red that might be a better fit for cold weather but that red-or-bust drinkers will embrace.

These wines were found at Matherne’s Supermarket on Highland Road, as well as some other regional merchants.

Chardonnay | Southwest-Armagnac
2012 | $12
I know I’m always giving Chardonnay fans short shrift because of my fondness for Sauvignon Blanc, but here’s a French Chardonnay from Domaine du Tariquet that we should all have in the chiller this summer. It’s got a great profile and a nice price. Producer Yves Grassa, a former Winemaker of the Year by the International Wine Challenge in London, turns out a buttery Chardonnay partially aged in French oak that is classic and rich.

Pair it with: Chicken under a Brick, the popular recipe in which a whole chicken is split and seared in cast-iron while pressed under foil-wrapped bricks. The bird can be finished in the oven or on the grill or smoker. Its claim to fame is its crispy, golden skin.

Red | Napa Valley
2009 | $19
As Matherne’s General Manager Bill Hounshell notes, some wine drinkers insist on a big, bold red even in the relentless south Louisiana heat. This selection has good flavors and complexity, with just the right tannins to give it structure without being over the top. Made exclusively with juice from Napa Valley, it’s great quality at a great price. The winery has other notable selections—we featured Sean Minor’s 2013 Vin Gris Rose in this column in May.

Pair it with: Bone-in rib eye with blue cheese sauce; or feta-stuffed lamb burgers with caramelized onions and pepper jelly.

Rose of Sangiovese
Columbia Valley, Washington
2013 | $17
Roses are continuing their steady march toward acceptance in the Capital City, with merchants around town stocking more and more elegant rose selections every spring and summer. This one is a little more expensive than some, but it is particularly flavorful. Winner of the Sweepstakes Award/Best of Class at the 2013 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, this wine delivers notes of berry and apple and a long lingering finish.

Pair it with: Seared soy-ginger tuna or snapper with pickled Asian veggies; or crab cakes with roasted poblano, corn and black bean salsa.