Our food critic’s name may be false, but the credentials are not. This gastronome has studied the history, cultivation, preparation, science and technology of food for more than 30 years.
On a nondescript section of Sherwood Forest sits a tiny brown building with various pots of flowers and herbs scattered around the spruced-up exterior. But don’t let the humble facade fool you—within is a hidden jewel that, once discovered, will have you wishing you found it sooner. That gem is Duang Tawan.
The interior space is calming, with light green walls decorated with beautiful Thai art and intricately carvedtabletops protected by glass. It’s a feast for the eyes even before you order. A large wall of glass fronts the street, giving diners a window to the world (or traffic) of Sherwood Forest.
The menu is voluminous without being overwhelming and has succinct dish descriptions for the uninitiated. While looking over the menu, one can’t help but notice tiny red chili peppersindicating to the diner the ability to choose the spiciness level: mild, medium, hot or Thai hot. For those south Louisianans who think they know spicy food, take it from me: We don’t know squat. Mild is indirect with a very subtle hint of spice. Medium is spicy while still allowing the nuances of ingredients to be enjoyed. Hot is hot and should come with a warning. And if you’re just plum crazy, go ahead and get Thai hot. But you will pay for your insolence during dinner, after dinner, and maybe even the next day. You have been warned.
On our Thai sojourn, we started with my perennial favorite, Larb—a hybrid of ground/chopped pork loaded with slivers of red onion and chopped cilantro. The spice was mild, as requested, with a pleasant sourness. My companion said it was the least favorite thing eaten here, while I found the flavors to be a piquant awakening for my taste buds and a lively starter for the flavors to come.
For a second appetizer we tried the Pork Thai Dumplings. The thin dumpling dough was hefty enough to encapsulate the garlicky pork ball, yet thin enough to be unobtrusive. The accompanying sauce was a delightful, sweet foil to the garlic, albeit a bit overpowering if too much was used. “It’s a great alternative to regular spring rolls,” noted my opinionated partner.
I can’t get enough of Thai soups, and Duang’s Shrimp Tom Yum is no exception. When I asked for my partner’s opinion, the response was, “I dig their soup. It’s always a hit when the office comes at lunch.” We requested medium spice, and the sweet/sour nature of the broth was incredibly satisfying, while the freshness of the plump shrimp enhanced the overall experience.
For entrees, we decided upon the Duck Pineapple Curry and Steamed Fish with an accompaniment of Chicken Spicy Basil Noodles. An unanticipated miscommunication had us dining on Chicken Basil Sauce rather than the noodles. The dish had copious amounts of chili flakes that highlighted the chicken and vegetables rather than inundating the palate with heat. We were pleased with the mistake.
Our other fowl entree was another distinct achievement. The fragrant coconut milk sauce along with duck, squash, bamboo shoots and sweet pineapple chunks was an unequivocal hit. The sliced duck was tender and juicy, taking us both by surprise, as braised duck can often be bland and rubbery. I realize I’m gushing, but I can’t help but reiterate the marvel that was this dish.
As for the Steamed Fish, we were divided in opinion. After the spiciness and richness of our other dishes, I found the mild, delicate fish with fresh vegetables to be the perfect contrast to our other delights and a pleasing completion to the meal. My companion thought the flavors were too subtle.
With Thai food being such a complex yet harmonious composition of sour, spice, salt and sweet, dessert could be deemed unnecessary. With our bellies stuffed to the brim from our Thai feast, we decided to forgo dessert. But if a sugary ending were an absolute must, I’d suggest Duang’s Thai iced coffee, with the addition of sweetened condensed milk.
On our way out we chatted with the owner, extolling the virtues of his establishment. He explained that it’s hard to go wrong when you have Grandmother in the kitchen. And if there’s one thing we in south Louisiana know, whether she is Cajun or Thai, good things always come from a grandmother’s kitchen.
