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Brunch at City Café

Located in a shopping center on the corner of O’Neal Lane and George O’Neal Road, City Café has been feeding southeast Baton Rouge for well over a decade with a traditional Louisiana lunch and dinner menu. Sunday brunch begins at 10 a.m., and on a recent Sunday we arrived soon after opening and were greeted by the warm smile of the hostess, who seated us immediately.

Though the weather was clearing after a fierce overnight storm, we decided to forgo their outdoor patio for a seat inside the soothing, light-filled dining room. The main dining room walls are painted with a warm, earthy red, except for one that is rustically adorned with wood planks, creating a cozy, homey atmosphere. Having housed several restaurants in the past, the space is somehow fresh and new, with little hint of those past dining establishments.

Offered no real appetizers on the brunch menu, we plunged right into the entrees.

Besides typical brunch fare, City Café offers a Hangover Burger with bacon and eggs piled atop an 8-ounce patty, Gouda Grits with toast and bacon, and a hefty Eggs Benedict with fried oysters on top.

We opted for the California Omelet and Bergeron’s Chicken & Waffles. These selections are served with breakfast potatoes and a biscuit, but our waitress cheerfully substituted fresh fruit for the potatoes on the omelet plate. Brimming with sauted spinach, mushrooms and tomatoes as well as cheddar and a surprise addition of cool, creamy avocado, this perfectly portioned dish was lightly seasoned, allowing the brightness of the vegetables to shine.

And, happily, the splendid side of fruit was an atypical assortment of blackberries, blueberries, apples and oranges rather than the conventional serving of anemic melons. The biscuit was accidentally forgotten, but our amiable waitress quickly remedied the situation. Once it arrived, though, I wished I hadn’t bothered, as the biscuit was tepid and underwhelming at best. The only glitch in an otherwise wonderfully prepared omelet: pale, out-of-season tomatoes. But, thankfully, the serving was quite filling without weighing us down.

The scope and size of the Chicken & Waffles was an entirely different story. Two enormous fried chicken tenders (more like whole chicken breasts) bedecked a large, fluffy Belgian waffle. The waffle was thoroughly crispy and moist but otherwise lackluster. The crunchy and perfectly fried chicken lacked greasiness but also lacked seasoning. An extra sprinkle of salt in the batter and on the meat could have rectified the issue. What redeemed this dish from being mundane was the incredible side of syrup. Described as “Frangelico maple syrup,” it was sweet and spicy with perhaps a sprinkling of cayenne. The hazelnut flavor of the liqueur was subtle yet discernible, and the combination of flavors was the perfect accent to the carb/protein combo.

Glancing at another table, we noticed that a patron’s orange juice was served on the side of her mimosa in an individual carafe, allowing the imbiber to regulate the juice-to-liquor ratioa superb touch for a jolly brunch made jollier by the fact that the champagne flows freely. Pay once and drink as much as you dare.

On the way out the door, I strolled through the bar area. Partitioned off from the main dining room, its position grants easy access to the covered patio. It’s a marvelous space, with high tables and comfortable booths whose walls are lined in the same reclaimed wood found in the dining room. With an abundance of tables, TVs and available drinks, I’m questioning why I haven’t been hanging out here with my buddies over brews and ball games.

The entire staff was exceedingly friendly and polite. Our waitress checked on us often to offer her services and fill our cups, but she was never obtrusive. We were served a good, solid meal with tasty food and reasonableportions. A great boon for the surrounding area, this should be one of southeast Baton Rouge’s neighborhood joints. I’m just sorry I haven’t graced its door for many years. I intend to make up for lost time.

citycafebr.net
4710 O’Neal Lane
753-4420

Brunch is 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays; open at 11 a.m. Monday-Saturday